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Sowing & propagation

Give unusual plants the right start.

A practical reference for when to sow, how deeply to plant, when cold treatment helps, and how to get young plants safely established.

Illustrated sowing and propagation display with seed trays, seed packets and young seedlings

Start here

Sowing calendar & reference

The table gives the quickest answer: find the plant, check whether it needs cold treatment, note the sowing depth and use the timing as your starting point. Where the plant has a catalogue page, click its name to jump straight to that plant’s growing and propagation section.

PlantStratificationDepthWhen to sow
OcaNo (tubers)5–7 cmPlant Apr–May
Tiger Nuts (Chufa)No (tubers)5–7 cmPlant Apr–May (after frost)
Jerusalem ArtichokesNo (tubers)10–15 cmPlant Mar–Apr
Ewiger KohlNo (cuttings)Propagate cuttings Mar–Apr
CeltuceNo0.5 cmSow Apr–May
Red AmaranthusNo0.5 cmSow Apr–May (needs warmth)
PurslaneNoSurface/0.5 cmSow Apr–May (warmth needed)
ThymeNo2 mmSow Feb–Apr
ChickweedNoSurface/0.5 cmSow Feb–Apr (self-seeds after)
Victorian Dwarf PeaNo3–5 cmSow Feb–Apr in trays or direct
YarrowOptional2 mmSow Feb–Apr or Aug–Sep
RosemaryNo5 mmSow Feb–Apr with warmth
Strawberry SpinachNo5 mmSow Feb–Apr; direct Apr–Jun
ChervilNo5 mmSow Feb–Mar & Aug–Sep
Purple OrachNo10 mmSow Feb–Mar; direct Apr–Aug
English PlantainNoSurface/0.5 cmSow Mar–Apr
Lamb’s QuartersNoSurface/0.5 cmSow Mar–Apr
Lemon SorrelNo0.5 cmSow Mar–Apr
Salad BurnetNo0.5 cmSow Mar–Apr
SculpitNo0.5 cmSow Mar–Apr
Chinese onion chiveNo10 mmSow Mar–Apr
ScorzoneraNo1.5–2 cmSow Mar–Apr (direct trays or beds)
SalsifyNo1.5–2 cmSow Mar–Apr (direct)
Lemon BalmNoSurface/0.5 cmSow Mar–Apr (spreads easily)
Babington’s LeekNo (bulbils)1–2 cm if seedSow Mar–Apr; bulbils Mar
ChicoryNo10 mmSow Mar–Apr; direct Apr–Aug
Mexican CorianderNo5 mmSow May–Jun
AlexandersYes1 cmSow Oct–Nov, germinates spring
Good King HenryYes1 cmSow Oct–Nov, germinates spring
SilverweedOptional0.5 cmSow Oct–Nov, germinates spring
SkirretOptional0.5 cmSow Oct–Nov, germinates spring
Caucasian SpinachYes0.5 cmSow Oct–Nov, slow may take until Apr–May
AngelicaYes0.5 cmSow Oct–Nov, sprouts Mar–Apr
LovageYes0.5 cmSow Oct–Nov, sprouts Mar–Apr
MeadowsweetYesSurface/light dustSow Oct–Nov, sprouts Mar–Apr
Sea KaleYes1.5–2 cmSow Oct–Nov, sprouts spring
Wild GarlicNo10 mmSow Nov–Jan
BistortNo3 mmSow Dec–Feb and sow Feb–Apr
Mangelwurzel Ursus PolyNo2–3 cmSow Apr–May
Cinnamon BasilNo1–2 mmSow May–Jun

The bit that catches people out

How deeply should seed be sown?

Unusual seeds vary enormously in size. Treat the depth in the table as the plant-specific instruction; these four groups explain what those depths mean in practice.

0

Surface sow

Press tiny seed onto moist compost without burying it. Keep good contact with the surface and avoid washing it into the compost when watering.

Lightly cover

Use only a very fine dusting of compost or vermiculite. The seed should be protected from drying without being buried deeply.

1

Shallow sowing

For the many entries around 0.5–1 cm, make a shallow depression or drill, sow evenly and cover gently before watering.

2+

Deeper sowing

Larger seeds and planting material can sit deeper. Firm the compost or soil back around them so there are no large air gaps.

Cold stratification

When winter is part of germination

Some perennial seeds are adapted to experience winter before they germinate. Others do not need it at all, so cold treatment should be used because the plant calls for it — not as a blanket rule.

Natural winter sowing

Sow at the recommended depth

Use pots, modules or a protected seed bed with free-draining compost.

Leave the sowing exposed to seasonal cold

Keep it outside or in an unheated protected area where it experiences winter conditions without becoming waterlogged.

Do not assume nothing is happening

Some seeds sit apparently dormant for months and only move once conditions change in spring.

Watch moisture as weather warms

Do not let small pots dry completely just as germination begins.

Controlled cold treatment

Start with clean, slightly moist material

The aim is cool and moist, never soaking wet.

Give the seed a cold period

A refrigerator can imitate winter when natural autumn sowing is inconvenient.

Return to normal growing conditions

After the cold period, sow or move the pot to the conditions the species needs for germination.

Be patient with perennial seed

Germination can be staggered. Keep labelled pots longer than you would with quick annual vegetables.

A note about Lovage

Lovage is listed here as not requiring stratification. Normal spring sowing is the preferred starting method; cold treatment is only a fallback if a particular batch proves stubborn.

After sowing

From germination to a sturdy young plant

The exact growing conditions vary by species, but these are the habits that prevent many of the common failures with small batches of unusual seed.

Moist, not saturated

Compost should not repeatedly swing between bone dry and sodden. Fine seed is especially easy to dislodge or bury with heavy watering.

Give seedlings light

Once shoots appear, good light helps keep growth compact. Weak, stretched seedlings are harder to pot on and establish.

Add airflow

Covered trays are useful for retaining moisture during germination, but prolonged stale, humid conditions can encourage mould and damping-off.

Pot on at the right stage

Move seedlings once they are large enough to handle and have started making true leaves, unless the crop is better direct-sown because its roots dislike disturbance.

Harden off gradually

Plants raised under cover need time to adjust to outdoor wind, cooler nights and stronger light before being planted permanently outside.

Label everything

Slow perennial seed can outlast your memory of what was sown. Plant name and sowing date are worth recording from day one.

Troubleshooting

When nothing seems to be happening

Unusual plants do not all behave like fast salad crops. Before throwing a pot away, check which of these situations is most likely.

No germination yet

Check the sowing date, depth and cold requirement first. Perennial seed can be slow or staggered, particularly after autumn/winter sowing.

Seedlings appear then collapse

Reduce excessive moisture and humidity, improve airflow and avoid keeping young seedlings crowded in constantly wet compost.

Seedlings are long and floppy

Increase available light and avoid excessive warmth once germination has occurred. Potting on slightly deeper is suitable for some plants, but it is not a substitute for better light.

Only a few seeds germinated

Do not automatically discard the rest of the sowing. With some perennial species a second wave may appear later, particularly after changing seasonal conditions.

Not everything starts with seed

Other ways to propagate edible plants

Some of the collection is better, faster or necessarily propagated vegetatively. The table identifies the obvious examples; these are the main methods you will encounter.

Cuttings

Used where a plant needs to be copied vegetatively. Ewiger Kohl is the clearest example: a healthy side shoot becomes the next plant.

Division

Mature perennial clumps can often be split into rooted pieces. This is useful for plants such as sorrels, herbs and established crowns.

Tubers & roots

Oca, Jerusalem artichokes and tiger nuts are started from planting material rather than true seed, following the depths and seasons in the table.

Bulbils & offsets

Babington’s Leek can be multiplied from its bulbils or offsets, preserving the perennial plant without relying on seed.

Once it is established

The plant page takes over from here.

This section is deliberately about starting and propagating plants. Once a plant is growing strongly, its individual plant page covers position, soil, ongoing care, harvesting, cooking and nutritional value.

Browse the plant collection